Jules Cheret

Regarded as the father of the modern poster, Jules Chéret revolutionised urban visual communication in the late 19th century. A master of colour lithography, he created captivating and dynamic compositions that became true icons of popular visual culture. The poster *La Diaphane* illustrates the convergence of technical innovation, advertising strategies and the emerging culture of celebrity. The poster promotes a rice powder renowned for brightening the complexion. This cosmetic enjoyed unprecedented popularity in the late 19th century due to changing standards of beauty, consumption and hygiene. An essential part of a woman’s beauty routine, it established itself as a daily ritual that affirmed modernity and refinement. By associating its image with Sarah Bernhardt, an internationally renowned actress, the brand secured prestige and credibility. Both a user and an ambassador for La Diaphane products, she lent her name and her image to the brand to cement its popularity. This partnership heralded the beginnings of influencer marketing, where the image of a public figure becomes a vehicle for desire, trust and loyalty. In this poster, Chéret depicts the actress dressed in a striking red dress and a feather boa, powdering her face with her head thrown back. Chéret does not, however, deliver a faithful portrait of Bernhardt. He incorporates her into a recurring archetype in his work, the ‘chérette’, a joyful, light-hearted and seductive female figure. Whilst the red hair allows the actress to be recognised, the depiction belongs more to his own graphic universe. By elevating the intimate act of applying powder, Chéret transforms a domestic gesture into a theatrical scene. This composition illustrates how advertising art appropriates contemporary aesthetic codes to appeal to a wider audience, whilst shaping new representations of femininity and modernity.MLF

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